Kris strikes again

Back in the city for a few days, I called Mary and we decided to impose on Kris for a dinner; he was happy to oblige. We began with a 2001 Erdener Riesling Kabinett, which was candy, then had a luscious morel risotto with the 2000 Altesino Brunello Mary brought (beautiful nose, but a bit thin.) Then seared foie gras with quince chutney on toast, alongside 2 1990 Vouvrays: a Domaine des Aubuisiers Vielles Vignes and a Clos Naudin demi-sec. Liquid honey and caramel with the creamy foie and crunchy toast.

Back to reds again for lamb chops crusted with herbes de Provence and mustard, accompanied by my 1998 Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots. We also had a 1999 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts by Clavelier and a Guyard de Changey 1999 Hospices de Nuits Nuits Saint Georges Les Murgers to go with the cheeses: a Piave and a Robiola. The consensus was that the Cathiard was the most ready to drink, and that the others needed more time. All quite masculine, they showed the astonishing variety Burgundy has to offer within a tiny area.

Dessert was first a deconstructed gin and tonic: lemon sorbet, gin gélée, and juniper syrup with shiso (transplanted from our deck) and then coconut ice cream (unbelievable) with fresh berries. Wow. And this on a night when we called last minute.