Monday, May 08, 2006

Wok and roll

Reaching the bottom of the fridge, I made a pot of brown rice (I always make too much so there's plenty for Christine & Milo to make breakfasts and lunches from) and threw some mung beans in a pot- actually into the still-hot water I cooked Milo's pasta in. Washed bok choy and did a quick sautée in the wok with olive and sesame oils plus garlic, lemon juice and ponzu. Wilted chiffonaded kale in the wok liquid once the cabbage came out, and set aside. The mung beans fell apart in the pasta water, and expaned to fill it (I was putting Milo to bed,) so I added a fat dollop of the ramp pesto (I made a lot) and stick-blended the whole thing into a smooth purée. This was originally going to be a stir-fry over the rice, but since the beans exploded I changed course.

Seasoned then with salt and ume vinegar to balance the rich earthiness, the purée went on rice spread on nori, then a shake of gomasio, then basil leaves, then the wilted kale rolled up into maki served with more of the bean/ramp sauce, miso mayo, and sriracha with the bok choy on the side. Surprisingly enough, we enjoyed it with a Mas de Gourgonnier rosé, grown outside of Les Baux, in my old neighborhood in Provence. I'm sure they'd be horrified to know that their wine accompanies vegan food just beautifully; it has enough grip to handle the richness of beans, ramps and miso, but the freshness and delicacy don't overwhelm the subtler flavors.

Lest any of you deride me for my rampocentric menus of late, I remind you that they're only around for a short time, and in their own way are as profound a taste of spring as peaches and tomatoes are of high summer, and with as short a season. And as for the rosés, what else goes with everything from bison to bok choy?

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