Variations

Our local market has good fish, but the only kind we'll eat is the wild salmon, since it's not yet overfished and is safer to eat than other varieties. So we're lucky that it's just a mile down the road, but it means I have to work at coming up with new ways to make salmon (today I'm going to the better market 10 miles away for some variety tomorrow.) I rubbed this filet with salt, pepper, and fennel seeds, then got a pot of polenta going and set some collards, onion, and water to simmering while a big kabocha squash roasted in the oven. I puréed the greens with yogurt and finished the polenta with a pat of butter. For a sauce, and a bit of excitement, I juiced some tangerines and reduced the juice with yuzu kosho, agave syrup, soy sauce, and nam pla. The last glass of the Vacqueyras was just right, and enough, considering how tired I was; were it not for the family, I would have had raisin toast with butter and gone to bed.